London - For the first time For someone who has spent much of her adult life living in London, it’s a strange feeling to recall that very first visit to the capital…….. It was the beginning of September and I was sixteen years old at the time, and my mother and I had travelled by train from North Wales, and we were planning to spend a week in London.

Scotland



And we’d booked bed and breakfast accommodation at a hotel in Piccadilly – a hotel that was then a firm favourite with people from North Wales. After all, one can’t get anywhere more ‘central’ in London than Piccadilly!

My first sight of London was Euston Station. And in those days it was a pretty grim place. Now, of course, things have changed, and Euston is a seething modern metropolis. Then, though, it was a dark and dreary station, and a rather depressing introduction to the capital. Our journey time from North Wales seemed to have gone on for ever – and we’d also had to change trains at Crewe.

We took a taxi to our hotel, and the taxi driver, hearing us speak in Welsh, assumed that we were ‘foreigners’, and proceeded to take us on a ‘round-about-route’ – presumably in order to be able to charge us a bigger taxi fare! But my mother soon spotted the ‘manoeuvre’, and informed the taxi driver in no uncertain terms that we wanted to reach our hotel by a direct route – and in the minimum possible time! So we managed to make the final part of our journey without being ‘fleeced’ – and I shall always remember arriving at Piccadilly, and seeing Piccadilly Circus for the first time!

Being evening, and darkness having by now fallen, Piccadilly Circus was ablaze with neon lights. And I found myself staring at the dazzling scene in awed wonder. Occupying centre space, of course, was the unmistakable statue of Eros, while the encircling pavements and roads were seething with life and activity. Cars and buses too seemed to be thronging through the streets, and I found myself marvelling at the fact that pedestrians were able to ford this incessant flow of traffic in an unscathed state!

Piccadilly Circus seemed to exude an air of tumultuous activity and unceasing vibrancy. It was definitely the ‘centre-point’ of the capital city, and viewing it for the first time was a ‘never-to-be-forgotten’ experience! And, of course, occupying pride of place in the centre of the capital’s ‘centre-point’ was the statue of Eros – a figure that held me enthralled. I’d read that initially the statue had been intended to represent ‘an angel of mercy’, then it had been renamed after the ‘Greek god of love’. Erected in 1892, ‘Eros’, I had read, had become almost ‘a trade mark for the capital’.

Our hotel being situated in Piccadilly, I fully expected to be subjected to a ‘noisy night’. But, surprisingly, what woke me in the early hours of the morning were the Rubbish Bin Collectors, who seemed to start their labours at 5.00 a.m. and spent an inordinate amount of time ‘banging’ rubbish bin lids as they made their tour of the area! Dawn, one assumed, was the least frenetic time in the area traffic-wise! And the Rubbish Bin Collectors came every single morning at 5.00 a.m. throughout the duration of our stay!

It’s quite remarkable what one can see in the space of only one week! Our first destination on that first day of our week’s stay was Trafalgar Square. And we joined the seething crowds that were again swarming across Piccadilly Circus, and headed down Haymarket towards Pall Mall, where we took a left turn that led us to Trafalgar Square. Described as ‘London’s main venue for rallies and outdoor public meetings’, Trafalgar Square, as its name suggests, was designed to commemorate not only the Battle of Trafalgar but also Admiral Lord Nelson, considered to be ‘Britain’s most famous sea lord’, who died in the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. And the 165 foot statue known as ‘Nelson’s Column’ overlooks and dominates Trafalgar Square.

Four lions were later constructed to ‘guard’ the statue, and particularly popular are the fountains that are also part of the site. For my part, my main recollection of the visit was being encircled by pigeons, which swarmed down on me and perched themselves on my head, my shoulders and my arms! And I still have the photograph that was taken to illustrate the scene! From Trafalgar Square we headed towards Admiralty Arch and then The Mall, which was bordered by St. James’s Park, and which finally led to Buckingham Palace.

Having seen so many pictures of Buckingham Palace in the course of my life, it was fascinating to see it in its reality. And as a child I had been regaled by my grandmother with the details of one of the famous Garden Parties held within its grounds. For she had accompanied my grandfather to the event, who had been invited to attend following his attainment of an award for gallantry during the First World War. The outskirts of Buckingham Palace seemed to be bristling with aspiring taxi drivers. And we had no problem at all in procuring a taxi to take us to our next destination, namely Whitehall and Westminster.

I had read that Whitehall and Westminster had been ‘at the centre of political and religious power for more than a thousand years’, King Canute having first built a palace beside a church there – a church that Edward the Confessor was later said to have ‘enlarged to form England’s greatest abbey’. And the ensuing centuries had seen ‘the offices of state’ being established within the proximity of the abbey. Certainly the conglomeration of buildings presented an awesome sight, and I found myself also viewing the River Thames for the first time. Being the beginning of September, the weather was still warm, and the sun was high in the sky. And the River Thames looked like a serene stretch of glistening azure.

I found my gaze being drawn towards the unmistakable contours of the towering image of Big Ben, which soared above the Houses of Parliament in dominant form. I had read that Big Ben laid claim to being the largest clock in the country. I had also read that the name ‘Big Ben’ did not in reality refer to the ‘world famous four-faced clock’ itself, but, in actual fact, referred to its ‘resonant 14-tonne bell’ that struck each hour, and whose ‘deep chimes had become a symbol of Britain all over the world’.

And its name ‘Ben’ I had also read, had been derived from one ‘Sir Benjamin Hall’, who had been Chief Commissioner of Works when the ‘giant bell’ had been hung in the year 1858. (Four smaller bells, I had read, marked the quarterly hours.) The Houses of Parliament – established as the Palace of Westminster in 1512 – constitutes both the Houses of Parliament and the House of Lords. And on that first visit to London, I viewed its imposing contours solely from the ‘outside’ but in later years, in my role as a journalist, I was invited inside its precincts, and was not only accorded a seat in one of its Visitors’ Galleries, but was also later entertained in great style to Afternoon Tea!

Westminster Abbey, however, we viewed both from the outside and the inside. And the abbey’s interior was as impressive as its exterior. But many other tourists seemed to have the same intention in mind, and we found ourselves joining a long, long queue of sightseers – which did detract somewhat from what should have been a unique experience. But, being a world famous edifice, inevitably it featured as a prime ‘must see sight’ on most tourists’ sightseeing itineraries. Described as the ‘resting place of Britain’s monarchs’, and also as ‘the setting for coronations and other great pageants’, the abbey’s interior seemed to draw visitors in their hundreds – if not in their thousands!

But one could appreciate the magnificence of its medieval architectural interior despite the presence of the crowds. I noted numerous monuments, amongst them the ‘Tomb of the Unknown Warrior’ – a memorial that had been created in memory of the many thousands who had been killed in World War One, and who had not been accorded their final ‘resting places’. And its very name was not without foundation, for one ‘unknown warrior’ had been buried within the tomb. I also caught a glimpse of the Coronation Chair, which I noted had been constructed in the year 1301, and on which subsequent monarchs had been crowned since the year 1308.

There were many other prime sites to be seen, but the overall aspect of the interior was in itself deeply impressive, and we finally managed to escape the crowds and returned outside into the refreshing river breeze that emanated from the Thames. It had been a busy morning of sightseeing, and we decided to spend the afternoon touring London’s ‘shopping areas’. Returning to Piccadilly, we first visited Fortnum and Mason’s, and I was quite awed by the selection of exotic food that was on display within the ground floor ‘provisions’ department’.

But with everything being ‘top notch’ and prices being somewhat high, we resisted the temptation to buy anything, and scurried out in search of a more economical lunch-time venue! From Piccadilly Circus we followed the curve of Regent Street in the direction of Oxford Street. Yet again, everywhere seemed to be teeming with activity – both of a human and vehicular kind. But every corner of the area seemed to be ‘alive’, and we seemed to zoom up Regent Street in no time at all.

At the junction where Regent Street met Oxford Street it seemed to be even ‘busier’, but we turned right and continued on our walk, passing countless shops of every description. Eventually we reached the junction that embraced Tottenham Court Road, and my mother suggested that we ‘retraced our steps’ so that I could also see ‘the other side’ of Oxford Street. This we did, and finally Oxford Street petered out altogether.

In the course of our Oxford Street tour we visited the vast department store of Selfridge and also John Lewis – the original John Lewis having been a draper, and the present day shop still renowned for its vast selection of fabrics and haberdashery. We also took a detour through Carnaby Street in Soho to view the ‘mock Tudor façade’ of the famed Liberty’s store. I’d read that one Arthur Lasenby Liberty had opened his first shop on Regent Street in 1875 – selling oriental silk. And his first customers had turned out to be some well known artists. And, as a result, it’s claimed that the Liberty prints and designs by famous artists influenced the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries – and that they continue to be popular. Every shop, it seemed, ‘had a story to tell’!

We passed two major Marks and Spencer stores in Oxford Street, and again it was remarkable to recall that ‘Marks and Spencer’ originally came into being following the arrival in 1882 of a Russian émigré known as Michael Marks, who initially set up a stall in Leeds’ Kirkgate Market, where every item on display was allegedly being sold at a penny each! Marks and Spencer now has more than 680 stores worldwide – and the two main Oxford street branches are said to be the ‘most interesting and well stocked’.

We had now reached the massive portals of Marble Arch – an arch that had originally been designed in 1827 as a main entrance to Buckingham Palace. But it proved to be too narrow for the coaches that had to pass through it, so, in 1851 it was moved to its present site. And it’s claimed that ‘it stands near the site of the old Tyburn gallows where, until 1783, the city’s most notorious criminals were hanged in front of crowds of bloodthirsty spectators’.

Beyond Marble Arch lay the peaceful green expanse of Hyde Park, alongside which stretched the elegant area known as Park Lane. I was amazed to find that I had walked such a long distance. London seemed to have that effect! One seemed to ‘walk and walk’ without being fully aware of the fact that one was walking!

My mother now suggested that we took a taxi to Harrods in Knightsbridge. And so we drove down Park Lane, past the famed ‘Hyde Park Corner’ and entered the precincts of Knightsbridge. Here we instantly located Harrods, which was a building that seemed to dominate the scene. Described as ‘the King of London’s department stores’, its origins I had read, reverted to ‘humble beginning’ when one Harry Charles Harrod opened a small grocer shop at nearby Brompton Road in the year 1849. It’s claimed that by concentrating on good quality and impeccable service, Henry Charles Harrod’s business expanded considerably. And thus the present day Harrods came into being!

It’s said that it now lays claim to 300 departments. And I recall being particularly impressed by its spectacular ‘Food Hall’ where exotic food of every variety was on display. But, alas, as in Fortnum and Mason’s, it was a case of ‘looking and admiring’ – albeit almost longingly – but not actually buying any of the expensive fare on display.

Whilst in the area we also visited Harvey Nichols, which, it is claimed ‘aims to stock the best of everything’. We dined that night at the ‘Lyons Corner House’ in Leicester Square. In fact, as far as I can recall we dined there every night throughout the duration of our week’s stay! For here, not only was the food both good and reasonably priced, but the place’s ambience was decidedly cheerful and lively.

The first day of our week’s stay in London had been a busy one. And we had five remaining days in which to ‘do’ the sights. My mother, of course, had been in London on numerous previous occasions, so she knew exactly where to take me so that I could view the capital’s main attractions.

St. Paul’s Cathedral was our first destination on that second day. And I can well remember seeing the domed edifice for the first time as we alighted from the taxi that had brought us to the street right outside it. I had seen countless pictures of St. Paul’s Cathedral, but the ‘reality’ more than confirmed its magnificence. Re-built by Christopher Wren following the Great Fire of London in 1666, the cathedral’s grandeur was indisputable.

Its dome, towering at 360 feet, is claimed to be the biggest dome in the world after St. Peter’s in Rome. And its Baroque interior was equally majestic and positively awe-inspiring. The Nave’s massive arches and numerous smaller domes that extended into the vast space below the main dome was a sight that was almost unbelievably spectacular. And I even climbed the 259 steps that led up to the famed ‘Whispering Gallery’, where the unique acoustics caused one’s whispers to echo around the dome.

Within the confines of the cathedral were numerous tombs of famous figures. And I was particularly intrigued by the inscription that marked Christopher Wren’s tomb, which read: “Reader, if you seek his memorial look all around you.” It seemed to be a particularly apt memorial!

From St. Paul’s Cathedral we wended our way into the centre of the ‘City of London’. Known as the financial centre of London, it seemed like a totally different city altogether. Rather resembling an archaeological oasis, its buildings were particularly impressive, and I first found myself gazing upon the majestic contours of the Mansion House – the official residence of the Lord Mayor, the Royal Exchange, and the Bank of England.

We toured the city precincts on foot, and I came to the conclusion that any tourist visiting London should always include ‘the city’ in his or her sightseeing itinerary….. It was remarkable how much ‘sightseeing’ we managed to fit into our ensuing few days. The places we visited included The Tower of London, Madame Tussauds – together with the unforgettable Chamber of Horrors, the Regent’s Park Zoo, the Royal Albert Hall, and a number of museums and art galleries.

In addition, we also visited Hampton Court – where I almost got lost in ‘The Maze’! We managed to procure tickets for two theatre productions, one being the musical ‘The King and I’, and the other being Agatha Christie’s famous stage play ‘The Mousetrap’. And when, at the end of that week, we boarded the train at Euston that was to take us back to our North Wales home, I bade a silent – and somewhat sorrowful farewell – to the capital city that I’d found so totally enchanting.

Little did I know at the time that in the not too distant future, not only would I be coming back to London in the role of a student, but would later find myself living in London where I would be working in the capacity of a journalist on a London newspaper………