Lyme Regis Described both as ‘The Pearl of Dorset’ and ‘a tourist honey-pot’ in high summer, Lyme Regis is West Dorset’s most westerly town.



It’s situated in a location that’s referred to as being ‘an area of outstanding natural beauty’. Backed by the steep hills that constitute the rolling countryside of Dorset, it seems to embrace the contours of the sea. And its harbour is considered to be particularly picturesque.

In fact, this was the location that was used for the filming of ‘The French Lieutenant’s Woman’, which was an adaptation of the book of the same name which was written by John Fowles, who lived in Lyme Regis until his death in the year 2005.

And it’s claimed that the film, which was shot in the year 1955, did more to boost Lyme Regis’ image as a much sought after holiday resort than any Tourist Board advertisement. Furthermore, it’s even claimed that the scene in the film which shows ‘a lone woman standing on the wave-lashed Cobb of Lyme Regis’ harbour front’ has become one of the cinema’s most evocative images.

Lyme Regis is also associated with another famous writer, namely Jane Austen, for she and her family visited the area in the year 1893, and part of her book ‘Persuasion’ is said to be set in the town. In fact, the creation of ‘The Jane Austen Garden’ commemorates her visit there. Considered to be West Dorset’s main resort, the town traces its origins to Saxon times when there used to be ‘salt works’ in the area.

Known initially as ‘Lyme’, it owes the addition of ‘Regis’ to its name to a royal charter that was granted by Edward I in 1284. The town itself is described as a maze of narrow streets with many Georgian and Regency houses. And the curving harbour wall, known as The Cobb, which protects the harbour and the beach from the south westerly winds, was first constructed in the year 1294, but has been greatly altered during the succeeding centuries, particularly in the nineteenth century, when its massive boulders were clad in blocks of Portland stone.

It’s said that the cliffs around Lyme Regis are made up of a layer of limestone, greensand and unstable clay, which is apparently the perfect medium for preserving fossils, which the landslips of the waterlogged clays then expose.

In the year 1811 after a severe storm caused part of the cliffs to collapse, a twelve year old girl called Mary Anning, who was a fossil hunter, was walking along the shore when she noticed bone protruding from the cliffs. And she discovered that it was an almost complete dinosaur skeleton. It was, in fact, the first ‘ichthyosaurm’ to be found in England, and it is now on display in London’s Natural History Museum.

The six mile stretch of coastline on either side of Lyme Regis is apparently world famous for its fossils, and a number of the specimens that have been discovered there are on display at the Lyme Regis Philpot Museum, and also at the Dinosaurland and Fossil Museum. Available too are two-to-three-hour ‘guided fossil walks’ along the beach, which focus on the area’s fossil heritage.

West of Lyme Regis lies the Undercliff, which is a collection of overgrown landslips, and now a nature reserve. And east of Lyme Regis lies the village of Charmouth, and at low tide one can walk for two miles along the beach to the headland of Golden Cap, whose outcrop of auburn sandstone is crowned with gorse.

Golden Cap, which rises to 617 feet, is the highest point on the south coast, and commands spectacular views from every vantage point. This part of the coast is said to have yielded a great variety of fossils, many of which can be seen at the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre. Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre is described as being ‘one of the country’s leading coastal geological visitor centres’, and aims to introduce each visitor to the amazing geology and fossils of the West Dorset coast. It features fossils that one can look at and even touch, interactive fossil identification displays, and a ‘fossil beach’ to practice ‘fossil hunting’. The wardens who run the centre organise a series of guided walks.

And as well as the fossil hunting walks, there are rock-pooling sessions available, and organised walks in the local countryside too. One of the most spectacular landslides to have occurred in the Lyme Regis area is said to have taken place in the year 1839 when a large block of land was severed from its neighbouring fields by a chasm. The landslide’s impact was so dramatic that even Queen Victoria is said to have come to inspect the scene – and viewed the sight from her yacht.

Ironically, despite having been accorded the addition of ‘Regis’ to its original name of ‘Lyme’ by the royal charter that was granted by Edward I in the year 1284, the town of Lyme Regis was said to be ‘staunchly anti-royalist’ during the Civil War, and is recorded as having ‘routed the royal forces’ – killing more than 2,000 of them in the process.

And it was Lyme Regis that the Duke of Monmouth chose as his landing place to start what is now described as ‘the ill-fated rebellion that ended with ferocious reprisals being meted out to the insurgents by the notorious Judge Jeffreys’.

Evoking further memories of the Civil War is the Town Mill, which stands by the River Lim in the centre of the town. It’s said that there has been a mill in Lyme Regis for many centuries but the current building dates back to the 17th century. For it was rebuilt then following the Siege of Lyme Regis during the Civil War when the original mill was burnt down in the year 1644.

However, in 1991 plans were being made for the total removal of the mill. But a group of Lyme Regis residents got together in an effort to save the old Town Mill from destruction. And they were successful in their bid, for the mill is now back in full working order.

And it is considered to be one of Lyme Regis’ major attractions for it now incorporates two Art Galleries, where a wide range of exhibitions are staged. Live performances such as concerts and poetry readings also take place on the premises. And in a stable building there are craft workshops.

Lyme Regis also has a Marine Aquarium where local fishermen bring ‘unusual catches’. And the parish church of St. Michael the Archangel also merits a visit for it contains a seventeenth-century pulpit and an enormous ‘chained bible’.

Lyme Regis is considered to be the centre of a range of activities, its annual Regatta and Carnival being particularly noteworthy. This event spans a whole week during the month of August, with bands playing on the Marine Parade and Morris Men and folk dancers giving dancing displays.

The nearest railway station to Lyme Regis is Axminster, which lies five miles north of the town. From here there is an hourly bus service to Lyme Regis, and taxis are also easily available.

To travel by car from London to Lyme Regis, one would probably join the M4 and continue along the motorway until one reaches the M5 intersection prior to the Severn Bridge, when one would head towards Bristol and then Exeter. From the environs of Exeter, the A3052 takes one directly to Lyme Regis.

An alternative road route from London would be to join the M4, then the M25 and then the M3, and then follow the A31 as far as the A35, then continue along the A35, and then finally branch off onto the A3052 which leads to Lyme Regis. On the one occasion when I visited Lyme Regis I travelled there along the first route and returned via the latter route.

Lyme Regis abounds with numerous restaurants, and considered to be both cheerful and inexpensive is the Bell Cliff Restaurant, which is known for its ‘excellent salmon fish cakes’. And Café Clemence is another popular restaurant. A Mediterranean style bistro, it serves both pasta and fish dishes in an attractive courtyard. Café Indigo, likewise, is a sought after eating venue, for it presents a ‘double image’, being a café and snack bar by day and an inexpensive pasta/pizza restaurant in the evenings.

Considered to be two of Lyme Regis’ best pubs are the Royal Standard – situated at the western end of Marina Parade, and the Pilot Boat – on Bridge Street, which serves sea-foods as well as drinks.

Lyme Regis also has a plethora of hotels. And these include: The Cobb Arms on Marine Parade, right beside the sea front; a coaching inn known as the Old Monmouth Hotel; Coombe House, which also has self catering apartments; Shamien House, which is a Grade II listed Georgian building with a 3-Diamond rating from the English Tourism Council; The Old Black Dog, which was built on the site of an old coaching inn in 1916, and which derives its name from an old legend featuring a local man who claimed to be ‘haunted’ by a ‘black dog’, whom he claimed he chased on one occasion, and was led onto the roof of a house where he discovered a pile of coins, which he used to build the original inn! Situated on the outskirts of Lyme Regis are two particularly prestigious hotels, namely Fernhill Hotel and Dower House Hotel.

Fernhill Hotel stands within 30 acres of countryside with woodland and ornamental lakes and its own private ‘coarse fishing’. Within its grounds too is a heated swimming pool. Set on a hillside, the hotel also lays claim to some magnificent views across the Char Valley. Built as a Regency mansion, it boasts a 4-Diamond rating from the English Tourism Council. And it’s situated adjacent to the Lyme Regis Golf Course where guests can enjoy reduced green fees. The hotel also has its own spring water supply. And, in addition, it offers a range of holistic treatments, conducted in a cabin by the pool overlooking the valley.

Dower House Hotel lies a few miles west of Lyme Regis on the A3052 coast road, where it is said ‘Devon meets Dorset’. And the hotel is situated in an ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’. Described as ‘a grand old country house with spacious and stylish reception rooms’, Dower House Hotel also has two restaurants, one being known as Bistro 3 Restaurant and the other as Peeks Restaurant.

It’s claimed that the hotel grows many of its own vegetables, herbs and salads, and that the meats on offer are ‘free range’ while most of the fish comes from Lyme Regis Bay. Furthermore, it occupies an idyllic location and commands stunning views across the Axe Valley. And, as has been quoted in a national newspaper: “The Dower House Hotel ‘has it all’.”

An irresistible ‘sightseeing excursion’ for anyone staying in the vicinity of Lyme Regis is a visit to nearby Chesil Beach. Referred to as ‘the strangest feature of the Dorset coast’, Chesil Beach is described as ‘a vast expanse of pebbles worn smooth by the sea, which extends for more than ten miles’.

The beach comprises a spectacular bank of pebbles, which decrease in size from east to west. In the east the pebbles are ‘apple-like’ in size and grey in colour, while in the west they are ‘pea-like’ in size and cream in colour. And fishermen are said to claim that they can judge exactly where on the beach they are landing by the size of the pebbles.

The gradual degrading of the pebbles is said to be the result of the powerful coastal currents. And, by the same token, this makes Chesil Beach an unsuitable beach for swimming. In fact, it has been described as ‘one of the most dangerous beaches in Europe’. And evidence of this claim can be located at nearby local churchyards, where graves bear testimony to such fatalities and to the lives that have been lost at sea beside Chesil Beach.

The Dorset Coast Path runs close to the shore for most of the way alongside Chesil Beach. And a long narrow lagoon that lies behind the beach for much of its length is known as ‘The Fleet’, which is now a nature reserve – and home to a wide variety of waterfowl. Chesil Beach represents a spectacular sight. And its miles of isolated stark pebbled terrain is certainly a sight that will always remain in my memory!

From Chesil Beach to Lyme Regis the coastline retains its dramatic image. And being a particularly fossil-rich section of what’s referred to as the ‘Jurassic Coast’, it has been proclaimed a World Heritage Site.