Scotland

Mention St. Andrews and three main images instantly spring to mind, namely St. Andrews University, St. Andrews Cathedral, and St. Andrews Royal and Ancient Golf Club.

St. Andrews is situated on a vast bay on the north-eastern coast of Fife, and is Scotland’s oldest university town. The area of Fife used to be known as ‘The Ancient Kingdom of Fife’ and was founded by the Picts in the fourth century. It’s described as being ‘a relatively small area, being barely fifty miles at its widest point’. But Fife is considered to have a definitive identity, being linked to three waters on three sides – the Firth of Tay to the north, the Firth of Forth to the south, and the North Sea to the east.



And it is said that it is to St. Andrews, which is situated beside the North Sea, that most visitors are drawn. St. Andrew is often compared to Oxford and Cambridge, its university having attained a distinctive status. Founded in the year 1410 and representing Scotland’s first university, its student population has a high percentage of English undergraduates – one of whom having recently been Prince William.

The town of St. Andrews was founded in the fourth century. And legend has it that it came into being as such as a result of a storm at sea. It’s said that St. Rule – also known as Regulus – was the custodian of the bones of St. Andrew in Southern Greece. And he claimed that he had a ‘vision in which an angel told him to transport five of the saint’s bones to the western edge of the world, and build a city there in his honour’. St. Rule dutifully set off by boat, bearing the five bones, but was said to have been shipwrecked on the rocks that lie close to St. Andrews’ present harbour. However, still bearing the five bones, St. Rule is recorded as having struggled ashore.

And here he is said to have built a shrine to St. Andrew. And it was the shrine that subsequently became the site of St. Andrews Cathedral. And St. Andrew became Scotland’s patron saint, while the town of St. Andrews became the country’s ecclesiastical capital.

St. Andrews’ residents are said to be ‘proud of their town’, and following the foundation of a strong local conservation lobby, many of its original buildings have survived. In fact, it’s said that almost all of its entire centre is composed of ‘listed buildings’.

While its university and its cathedral are symbols of St. Andrews’ past, the town has also attained fame as a golfing venue, and has even been described as ‘a pilgrimage centre for golfers from all over the world’.

It’s said that seven golf courses are situated within the immediate vicinity of the town. And golf is a game that has been played at St. Andrews since the fifteenth century. Furthermore, it’s claimed that those early ‘golfing days’ were instrumental in establishing Scotland as ‘the home of golf’.

St. Andrews Royal and Ancient Golf Club is the international governing body for golf. And it dates back to a meeting that was held in the year 1754 involving twenty two members of the local gentry who founded the Society of St. Andrews Golfers. Considered to be the most famous of St. Andrews’ golf courses is the Old Course, whose clubhouse is a building that dates back to the year 1854.

The British Open Championship was first held on this course in the year 1873. And it’s an event that has since been held at St. Andrews regularly over the years – thereby drawing great crowds to the town.

It’s possible to play at any of the town’s golf courses, which range from the nine-hole Balgove course to the famed Old Course itself. Considered to be an unusual golf course is the Himalays course which is in effect ‘a lumpy eighteen-hole putting course’. But it’s said that its grass is as ‘perfectly manicured’ as the nearby championship course. Founded in 1867, it was initially officially entitled ‘The Ladies Putting Club’, and has its own clubhouse.

Along the waterfront below the championship course clubhouse stands the British Golf Museum which displays pictures of famous golfers ranging from Tom Morris to Tiger Woods, together with a selection of memorabilia that has been donated by famous golfers.

It’s said that the centre of St. Andrews continues to maintain its medieval layout. The town’s three main thoroughfares run from west to east in almost parallel lines – namely North Street, Market Street and South Street. And all lead to the ruined Gothic cathedral. Considered once to have been the largest cathedral in Scotland, although it was founded in the year 1160, it was not completed and consecrated until the year 1318. And the consecration took place in the presence of Robert the Bruce.

Then, during the Reformation, in June 1559, John Knox and his supporters plundered the cathedral and left it in ruins. The cathedral site is situated above the harbour and little remains of the original church. It’s said that a stretch of turf represents what was once the central aisle, and a slab is all that remains of the high altar where the bones of St. Andrew were once enshrined.

Next to the ruined cathedral stands St. Rule’s Tower, which is described as being ‘an austere Romanesque monolith’. A total of 157 steps lead to the top of the tower, from where it is said one can have an excellent view of the town and its surroundings.

North of the cathedral the rocky coastline is said to curve inland towards the ruined castle. Dramatically situated, rising above the sea, with a moat separating it from the mainland, it was believed to have been founded in the year 1,200 and then extended in later years. It was originally built as part of the Palace of the Bishops and Archbishops of St. Andrews, but very little of the original castle now remains. In fact, what can be seen is said to date from the sixteenth century – apart from the fourteenth century Fore Tower. Situated south of the castle and west of the cathedral is St. Andrews Preservation Trust Museum and Garden, which is located in a sixteenth-century cottage. And it is said that the museum features ‘an intimate picture of the town’s history and golf connections’.

Within the centre of the town are a number of St. Andrews University buildings, including some that date back to the fifteenth century. As aforementioned, St. Andrews University is the oldest university in Scotland, and was founded in the year 1410. It was founded by Bishop Henry Wardlaw, who was a tutor of James I. And James I was in reality the nominal founder, and was said to have been ‘a great benefactor of the university’. One can take a guided tour of the university buildings or simply wander around freely at one’s own pace.

St. Andrews lays claim to two superb beaches, namely the West Sands, which extend for two miles just below the Royal and Ancient Clubhouse, and the smaller East Sands, which are said to curve round from the harbour. It’s said that the West Sands are best known as being the opening sequences of the Oscar-winning film ‘Chariots of Fire’.

The coastal boundary road that runs south of St. Andrews leads to an area known as East Neuk, comprising a series of quaint, picturesque fishing villages. And the rolling hills that lie inland are said to ‘provide some of the best farmland in Scotland’. The area is also said to abound with golf courses.

East Neuk is considered to be a favourite destination of holiday makers staying in St. Andrews. And many people visit the adjoining villages simply to sample the food that’s on offer at their restaurants. For East Neuk’s restaurants are regarded as ‘the highlights of the area’, with fresh seafood being a speciality, and produce from the nearby fertile farmland also being on offer.

The first East Neuk fishing village one comes to on leaving the confines of the town is Crail, which is said to have ‘a maze of rough cobbled streets leading down to a small stone-built working harbour that’s surrounded by piles of lobster creeks, and with fishermen’s cottages tucked into every nook and cranny in the cliff’.

And if the boats have just been out one can buy either fresh lobster or fresh crab and have it cooked at a small wooden shack that stands on the harbour edge Within the confines of the village stands the Crail Museum and Heritage Centre which traces the history of Crail. Another building that merits a visit is Crail Pottery, which displays a wide range of locally made pottery. Jerdan Gallery, likewise, also merits a visit, for it is said to display an array of contemporary painting, sculpture and ceramics by top Scottish artists.

And not only are there paintings to be seen at the gallery, but the work of ‘real, live artists’ are in evidence on the harbour front, for the area is said to be ‘populated with artists’ who sit at their easels and proceed to paint their picturesque surroundings.

St. Andrews’ East Neuk boundary comprises a total of five fishing villages, namely Crail, Anstruther, Pittenweem, St. Monans, and Elie. The largest is said to be Anstruther, which one comes to after leaving Crail. Within the confines of Anstruther stands the Scottish Fisheries Museum. Located in a complex of sixteenth to- nineteenth-century buildings – with timber ceilings and wooden floors – it traces the history of the Scottish fishing and whaling industry.

Anstruther is also said to have an excellent fish restaurant which is located in one of the village’s oldest buildings, and which is known as the ‘Cellar’. And for a traditional ‘fish and chips’ meal one is recommended to head for the Anstruther Fish Bar.

South of Anstruther one comes to Pittenweem, which has a number of small art galleries as well as a busy harbour and fish market. Then south of Pittenweem lies St. Monans, which is the smallest of the East Neuk fishing villages. St. Monans is said to be worth visiting simply to dine at what is described as its ‘splendid restaurant’, known as Seafood Restaurant, which is said to be ‘perched right on the sea edge with panoramic views out to sea’.

The fishing village of Elie, likewise, lays claim to a popular eating venue known as Ship Inn, which is said to overlook the beach near the harbour. While many people choose to head for St. Andrews’ East Neuk boundary to enjoy the area’s freshly caught fish meals, St. Andrews itself lays claim to many excellent restaurants.

And these include the ‘sister restaurant’ of St. Monan’s acclaimed Seafood Restaurant. This particular restaurant is said to occupy a remarkable location – being in a custom-built glass building on the beach, between the town’s Acquarium and the Old Course. Also known as the Seafood Restaurant, fish it is said, would seem to dominate both its menu and its location.

Another sought after restaurant, which lies a few miles south west of the town, is The Peat Inn. Considered to be one of Britain’s top restaurants, The Peat Inn is said to ‘serve a varied menu of local specialities’. While renowned for its remarkable restaurant, The Peat Inn, which is an old coaching inn, also provides accommodation. And the accommodation available represents eight suites located in a modern building that lies behind the inn itself.

Described as ‘the best-known hotel in St. Andrews’ is Old Course Hotel, which, as its name implies, is located beside the Old Course. It’s also said to be ‘a large, luxurious resort complete with all facilities, including a spa’.

Considered to be an unusual – if not unique – accommodation base is The Old Station, which lies south of St. Andrews, and is, in fact, a converted former station waiting room. Visitors have the option of either staying within the main house (based around the former station waiting room) or staying in what is described as ‘an imaginatively designed suite in an old railway carriage’ which is parked alongside the building. Inn on North Street is said to have ‘a youthful feel and a modern Gaelic style’. It’s also said to have tasteful rooms, wooden floors and a lively bar and restaurant area.

Nearby, also on North Stree, and situated beside the New Picture House cinema, is a café-bar-bistro that has regular live music sessions. And considered to be a favourite pub with students is Gin House, situated in South Street, which has regular DJs, and where food is served all day.

In St. Andrews, in fact, it’s said that there’s no shortage of either hotels, restaurants, cafes or pubs. But the demand for accommodation never ceases. With its on-going society of students, golfers and regular residents, St. Andrews represents many things to many people. Furthermore, it continues to retain a wide ranging appeal to visitors.

And, as the town that represents the patron saint of Scotland, and is thereby the country’s ecclesiastical capital, St. Andrews would seem to be without parallel, and appears to be in a special ‘league of its own’……..